Salt and Pepper: Amsterdam and bicycles (part 1. The 1800s)

Everyone who has visited Amsterdam has a story about bicycles. The city is synonymous with the two wheel, pedal powered machines. Every travel blog and travel website mentions bikes. Some are immediately enamoured others feel threatened, telling stories of the inability to safely negotiate Amsterdam’s streets. No photo album of the city is without a photo of a bike, some have more than 100 photos just of bikes! When you first enter the city by train, plane or automobile you are confronted with thousands of the two wheel transporters. This is a topic from which, When In Amsterdam can’t get away.

Instead of trying to compile a Top 5 list, compressing information into one posting. The approach to bicycles in Amsterdam is going to be gradual, leisurely and interactive.  We are going to start at the beginning and provide you time to digest and allow feedback.  If you have a bicycle experience or a story to do with the Dutch or Amsterdam join the conversation. Let us start the exploration of this phenomenon where not many do, at the beginning.

Early History of bicycles

Bikes burst onto the European stage in the late 1700s and early 1800s. Historians argue as to who should be credited with placing two wheels beneath a human being. Irregardless, the first bikes were made of wood with no pedals.  Such a machine was brought to the Paris exposition in 1818 by a German whom described his contraption as a running machine. Historians do agree that the first modern bicycle with pedals and a crank was patented in 1861 by Ernest Michaux, a Frenchman who owned a coach making company.


The design soon came to the United States through an employee of Michaux, Pierre Lallement. Pierre patented the model known as the ‘Boneshaker’ in the States. During the 1870s and 1880s metal work improved and models like the Penny Farthing became popular among the rich of Europe and the US.

Early bicycle history Amsterdam

In Amsterdam the first pioneer to establish a bike shop was J.T. Scholte who was also the agent for Timmer. Timmer set up the first bike rental company in Amsterdam and would conduct learn to ride activities. Scholte was a metal worker and sold a Boneshaker model through Timmer to another metal worker Henricus Burgers who started to make his own bikes. These men are celebrated as the pioneers of bicycles in the Netherlands.

In 1883, the General Dutch Cyclists Union (ANWB) was established. Today this is also the national automotive association. The ANWB is credited with positioning the bike within the national identity. During the late 1800s the Netherlands was struggling with industrialisation, the economy was slow. Mass emigration to the US was taking place and the population were creating its own pillars of support. Catholics, Protestants and Socialists are examples of groups that were looking after their own communities. The poor economy also meant that the rich, poor disparity was great.  

The ANWB through a country wide advertising campaign used cycling to unite the Dutch. Values of independence, discipline and consistency were identified as national characteristics. These values needed to be preserved during a period of uncertainty. In 1896 they launched the ‘Everyone on a bike’ campaign.

Bicycles were the answer to change and modernity. Touring the country was a way to reconnect with one’s country and reinforce the national identity. The car was about speed. The bike was about getting in touch with the landscape and its people. The bike was positioned as a symbol of the people for the people. See the pictures of Dutch and Amsterdam royalty on bikes.

Queen on a bike

Football King on a bike

Crown Prince and family on bikes

Entering the 1900s demand for bicycles was high. Farmers, postmen and even the army gave up their horses and jumped on bikes. The Dutch army had a battalion of bicycles that were mounted with machine guns.

The combination of a flat country, weak economy, diverging social identity and the industrial revolution meant that the Netherlands needed a symbol of unity. The answer was the bicycle.

Join the conversation. How have bicycles changed your life? Do you have any interesting stories of the Dutch, Amsterdam and bicycles?

Stay posted for Part 2 Salt and Pepper: Amsterdam and bikes: first half of the 20th Century

To see bike related pictures of the Dutch in the 1800s have a look at the following link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/letterlust/sets/72157623824385883/detail/

Other useful links found were:

Cycling in Amsterdam: Policies and Development

http://www.velomondial.net/velomondiall2000/PDF/LANGENBE.PDF

Ebert, Anne-Katrin. Cycling Towards a Nation: the use of bicycle in Germany and the Netherlands 1880-1940.

http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/1350748042000313751

Blog on History of Burgers

http://www.anddutch.co.uk/blog/history_burgers

Wikipedia- Amsterdam

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amsterdam

Global Rankings web site

http://www.globalsherpa.org/amsterdam-bike-riding-capital-world

Overcoming the Biggest Problem Visitors have in Amsterdam.

Gaining a Sense of Direction.

You may have been a Boy Scout, a Girl Guide, a Navy Seal or a SAS officer. Unfortunately, these skills don’t help you on your first, second or even your third visit to Amsterdam. The capital of the Netherlands rivals, parts of London, Istanbul, Hanoi, and Venice for complicated layout.

When in Amsterdam you maybe the sort of traveller that loves to wander, get lost and find weird new things. Great, there is good lost and bad lost. Wasting extended parts of your holiday can be an adventure but also extremely frustrating. With this blog entry you can do both because armed with some knowledge you can get more out of your stay in this beautiful city and find your way back to your bed.

First, why is Amsterdam so complicated?

1.  Not too many high points or land marks. The country is topographically flat. Hence the name, the Netherlands. Most cities have hills, mountains, a coast, a river or a visible business district with tall skyscrapers that can serve as a reference point.
2. The old city center has been designed on a semi-circle layout. No modern city grid system for Amsterdam the streets don’t run north-south, east-west, instead streets are circular and radial.
3. The city has many street names that are longer than the ally or street they name. Also, street names can change suddenly at an intersection or a canal.

Common strategies:

Winging it:

Pros: Amsterdam is a relatively small city. Eventually you will find your way back. You will stumble on things you never would have found.

Cons: Everything looks the same. To an untrained eye most of Amsterdam buildings and canals look the same. This is because they were generally designed or built in the same period. This is why Amsterdam is one of the most intact historic cities in Europe.

 Looking for high points:

Pros: The high points, church towers and towers in the city center are high and can been seen from a radius of a few city blocks.

Cons: Most of the towers were designed by the same person, Hendrik de Keyser. This means they look the same and can easily be mistaken for each other. See the attached picture of Amsterdam’s skyscape. It hasn’t changed much in over 400 years.

Amsterdam towers

Using a paper or app map:

Pros: You think you know where you are, knowledge is power.

Cons: Many street names are too long to be printed on a map. This results in the street name’s omission or being shortened to something that is not on the street sign in front of you. For example:  Eerste Lindendwarsstraat but the map says 1e Lindendwarsstraat. You attract petty criminals with your fancy phone.

Essential tips from the locals:

1. 1.       Know your north point

Generally, Central Station is your north point. When asking for directions ask where Central Station is and then get your bearings.

1. 2.      Mark your map

Hotel/hostel, main attractions and places you want to visit. When you find a place you like ask someone to mark it on your map.  

1. 3.       Know the main canals

Keizersgracht(Emperor’s canal), Herengracht (Gentleman’s canal, Prinsesgracht(Prince’s canal). You may not be able to pronounce them but knowing that these three canals run around the city centre in a horseshoe shape will help. Also know that the house numbers on these canals start on the north-west side of the city and go up in an anti-clockwise direction. Many a visitor has walked more miles than necessary without this information.

1. 4.       Know your tram lines

Tram tracks are the best reference points. Amsterdam has a fantastic network of trams. Following the line is often the fastest way to get out of the maze of alleyways and heading in the right direction. Keep an eye out for Trams that are listed as Central Station. This will help you with gain your north point.  When using your map look how many tram lines you will cross to get to your destination and what number trams run on those lines.

1. 5.       Ask somebody

This may help. Amsterdammers are famous for their tolerance and their friendliness. However, if you keep hearing ‘go down to the canal and turn left at the next bridge’ refer to the first four points.

1. 6.       Go in, before you go out

What many people don’t realize and maps don’t accurately depict is that when a city is design on concentric circles the blocks get bigger the further you go out. Rather than follow the same canal it is often quicker to head one or two canals towards the center and then head back out. This will save your legs the extra distance.

6. Go on a walking tour on your first day.

Great way to orientate yourself and learn about the city along the way. There are tours for every budget from Free tours for those on a shoe string. There are small group tours for those that wish for value for money and Private tours for those who wish a personal experience or with large groups.

Lastly, When in Amsterdam….. Enjoy!