Amsterdam Canal Festival (Grachtenfestival) 2012 Begins

When in Amsterdam....the Canal (Grachten) Festival is held for one week in August. The festival celebrates Amsterdam as the cultural capital of the Netherlands. 15 years ago the original aim was to create a 3 day platform for young classical musicians and incorporate cultural activities into the landscape of Amsterdam.

This year the festival is 10 days of classical music, dance and theatrical performance. There are both paid and free performances during the event. The festival is concentrated around the Klovinersburgwal but events are spread throughout the city.

Today we caught violinist Lonneke van Straalen and cellist Jan-Bastiaan Neven play a suite by Stravinsky.

Violinist Lonneke van Straalen and cellist Jan-Bastiaan Neven

We also saw clarinetist Sergio Hamersla play a selection of music by Fuchs.

Clarinetist Sergio Hamerslag 

The Canal Festival culminates in a grand concert on the World Heritage listed Prinsengracht with the Westerkerk as a backdrop. The below Youtube clip shows the concluding concert to the 2011 Canal festival.

Keep posted for more highlights.

When in Amsterdam...enjoy!

August in Amsterdam: festival month

When in Amsterdam....August is festival month. Every day of August there is something exciting and new.

The first week of August Amsterdam is pink and proud. Amsterdam has always been a city of tolerance and the gay and lesbians are free to be themselves in the city. Once a year this freedom is celebrated. The annual Pride festival culminates in the canal parade. This year on August 4th for the 17th time 80 boats will float through the canals and finish at City Hall. Gain a good vantage point along the Prinsengracht or the Amstel. Music stages are located at the City Hall, Rembrandtplein and also Zeedijk.

Pride Parade 2011 (photo by Anne Vanels)

The Canal Festival (10-19 August) is When in Amsterdam's favorite festival of the year. The historical canals come alive with the sound of classical music. One highlight is the sound of grand pianos floating through the city being played by professional musicians. The Festival culminates in the concert on Prinsengracht in front of the Pulitzer Hotel. Be sure to get early for a good vantage point.

World Cinema Amsterdam (8-19 August) brings international cinema to the outdoors. This year the theme is Brazil. If the weather is good expect energetic post film party.

Uitmarkt (24-26 August) is one of Amsterdam's largest cultural festivals. It is the official opening of the cultural season hundreds of acts are on display. Check out Museumplein for the hottest cultural acts of 2012.

When in Amsterdam...enjoy!

Amsterdam Canal House Museums Part 2: Geelvinck Hinlopen House

When in Amsterdam......visit a Canal House Museum. Set on Amsterdam's UNESCO World Heritage Canals you step back into the existence of the city's social and merchant elite. These museums are away from the crowds and let you wander the rooms and gardens of valuable canal mansions. Value for money if  used with the museum card or IAmsterdam card. 

The Geelvinck Hinlopen Family

The Geelvinck Family were a regent merchant family who made their fortune shipping in Spain, Africa and the West Indies. Five of the Geelvinck family became lord mayors of Amsterdam and their name was given to the ship that explored Western Australian and New Guinea.

Albert Geelvinck was a lawyer and an involved businessman in Suriname. He married the rich orphan Sara Hinlopen. Sara's father was a wealthy flemish cloth merchant, was an initial investor in the Dutch East Indies Company and also a great patron of the arts. Sara was orphaned at the age of six after her father died aged 40 years old.

Entrance Geelvink Hinlopen House Museum
Amsterdam

The House

The house was compelted in 1687. It was purchased by the Geelvinck family to entertain guests. Built on the newly developed Herengracht near the Amstel. In the late 1600s this was the area of rich Amsterdam families.

The museum's entrance is through the Coach House on the Keizersgracht just down the road from Foam (photography museum). After dropping off bags in the lockers provided we exit the Coach House and enter a wonderful quiet garden. The rear of the garden is designed in Renaissance style while the front section is of symmetrical French style.

Garden - Geelvink Hinlopen House Museum
Amsterdam

On entering the rear of the house you are greeted by a volunteer tour guide. The guide takes you through the first floor. We did the tour in English. This tour distinguishes the Geelvinck Hinlopen House from the other Canal House museums of merchant Amsterdam families. The guide's insight brings the richly decorated house alive.

In the foyer hangs a 400 year old tapestry. Designed by Felmish Michiel Coxie. The tapestry depicts Cyrus the Great of Persia (550 BC) and and Croesus the Rich of Lydia. Despite Cyrus capturing Croesus he did not kill him by rather made him a prinicple minister.

There are four period rooms that are decrorated in late 18th century styles. Rococo and neo classical styles are prominent. From May until June the museum is celebrating 400 years of diplomatic relations between Turkey and the Netherlands. The downstairs area houses the exhibition.

Every Sunday there are chamber concerts in the neighboring downstairs room. Musicians use antique musical instruments that are part of the house collection. For more information regarding the house visit their website

When in Amsterdam...enjoy!

Amsterdam Canal House Museums: Van Loon Museum exhibit Michiel van Musscher

When in Amsterdam......visit an Amsterdam Canal House Museum. Set on Amsterdam's UNESCO World Heritage Canals you step into the existence of the city's merchant elite. With the museum card or IAmsterdam card these museums are great value. These museums are away from the crowds and let you wander the rooms and gardens of valued real estate.

The Van Loon Family

The Van Loon Family is a patrician family of Amsterdam. The family moved to Amsterdam from South Holland in the 17th century. In 1602, Willem Van Loon was one of the founding members of the Dutch East Indies Company (VOC) and Willem's grandson was Lord Mayor of Amsterdam. The Van Loons were raised to the position of peerage in the 1800s. The  the house was bought by the family in 1886 as a wedding present for a younger Van Loon.

The Van Loon Museum is still owned by the family today.

The House

Van Loon Museum - Amsterdam

Built in 1672, its first resident was Ferdinand Bol, pupil of Rembandt, and master artist in his own name. The house next door was owned by Jeremias van Raey, a Flemish merchant who made his money by selling weapons and grain. Van Raey rented the yet to be named Van Loon House to Bol. The architect of the house was Adriaen Dortsman who also designed the Dome Lutheran Church in Amsterdam, the now named Descartes House and the fortifications at Naarden, just outside of Amsterdam.

Van Loon Museum - Amsterdam

The Van Loon Museum is a chance to step behind the facade of a grand canal house in Amsterdam's heritage listed canals. The house is like stepping back in time. Bread is still on the kitchen table. The beds are dressed in linen. The house looks like the 17th century owners have just stepped out.

At the back of the house is wonderful garden and a coach house. The garden is beautiful and a moment of peace away from the noise of Amsterdam's streets. The newly renovated coach house is currently housing an exhibition by painter Michiel van Musscher.

Van Loon Museum Garden and Coach House - Amsterdam

Coach House Exhibition of Michiel van Musscher

In the Coach House is the first exhibition of Michiel van Musscher (1645 - 1705)  who painted during the time of Rembrandt. Van Musscher was born into a Mennonite family and was first commissioned by the Van Loon family in 1679. He was one of the most successful portrait painters in Amsterdam at the end of the 1600s. His most famous subject is Tsar Peter the Great.

Michiel showed talent for painting early in life and excelled after a few months of training.  Van Musscher's special talent was detail especially tapestry, oriental carpets and fine fabrics. His ability to paint realistically is what made the elite of Amsterdam commission him for paintings.

Our favorite painting of the exhibition was that of the painter's family. The skill of detail was evident. What was more amazing was that the painting was done months after the death of van Musscher's first wife. The painting was a memory. The artist also added a peacock, that symbolizes immortality, and a finch that symbolised resurrection.

For those who enjoy Dutch Golden Age art the Michiel van Musscher exhibition is well worth a visit. The exhibition runs from March until June. For more information regarding entrance prices and times visit the museum website.

When in Amsterdam...enjoy!

All-time Top 10 Things to do in Amsterdam: a critical look

When in Amsterdam has realised that every website associated with Amsterdam travel has a top list of things to do in this city. Some websites only have Top 5 or 10 lists.

When in Amsterdam could provide our own list but honestly there is no Top 10 list. Waking up in Amsterdam the list changes day to day because of mood, weather and the place in question.

So we are going to give you the All-time Top 10 list of things to do in Amsterdam (updated November 2015).

Our approach is simple: 

• Collation
• 100 web pages were analysed.
• Search Terms were “top things to do in Amsterdam”, ‘top 10 things in Amsterdam’
• To qualify the page needed to have in its title top things to do in Amsterdam. For Example: Top 5, Top 10, Top 20 things to do in Amsterdam.

We collated the results then ran a critical look at the list to provide you with an alternative.

Counting down from 10 to 1.



Timmer's Flowers and Plants: Amsterdam Floating Flower Martket
photo: Sonia Hermosin

10. Amsterdam’s Famous Floating Flower Market

The last market in Amsterdam still on the water. A wonderful place for colour and it is central. The Dutch are famous for cut flowers and bulbs. The 1637 stock market meltdown because of speculation on tulip bulbs made the Dutch synonymous with the Turkish flower.

Critical look:

• The market has no educational aspect at all.
• The market is not really floating.
• A retail market servicing mostly tourists from Europe.
•  Custom’s regulations restrict other visitors from taking back bulbs to their countries.
• It is worth a look if in the area especially for the Timmer's family stall famous for their quality cut flowers and plants.

Alternative:

•  Alsmeer Flower Market: An hour by bus outside Amsterdam it is the World’s largest flower market and the world’s 4^th largest building. You can’t help but learn on the self-guided tour.

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9. Vondel Park

Named after the famous 17 century poet and playwright Vondel it is Amsterdam’s central park. The park was created in 1864 after Victorian England made such gardens popular. It has a Picasso sculpture, wonderful bike paths, the film museum and a theater.

Vondel Park, Amsterdam

Critical look:

• As is commonly reported Vondel Park receives 10 million visitors a year. 
• On a sunny day finding a quiet spot in Vondel Park is not possible.
• The smell in parts also demonstrates the lack of toilet facilities. This has been added to over the last few years.(thanks to comments section)
• The high numbers of visitors and its central location, the park attracts people that want to be noticed. Unsocial behaviour and drunkenness does occur at the end of a hot day.

Alternative:

• Westerpark is central and large like Vondel Park. The east-west layout results in more sunshine hours, if you are lucky to get a sunny day in Amsterdam. Large range of bars, eateries and toilets.

8. Visit the Albert Cuyp Market

With over 220 stalls and situated within the old Latin Quarter of Amsterdam, the Albert Cuyp market is the largest street market in the Netherlands and professes to be one of the largest daily markets in Europe. Named after the 17^th century painter the market has operated since 1905.

Critical look:

• It is not the most affordable of Amsterdam street markets.
• Expensive nature means working class Amsterdammers go to other street markets.

Alternative:

• Dappermart: cheaper, more rustic, fewer tourists, rated top 10 shopping streets in the world by National Geographic 2007.
• The new Foodhallen opened in late October 2014. Indoor food market similar to New York's Chelsea Market. Great for a meal and indoor activity.

7. Ride a bike

With an estimated 600 000 to 1 million bicycles circulating in Amsterdam, the city is one of the bike capitals of the world. The compact and flat nature of the city makes biking a fast and affordable travel option in Amsterdam.

Amsterdam bike

Critical look:

• Most anger from locals towards visitors is about biking or walking in bike paths. 
• Many Amsterdammers believe that visitors should take a test before being allowed to rent or ride a bike in Amsterdam.
• Riding a bike in Amsterdam City Centre traffic is not for beginners.

Alternative:

• Walk smaller areas and take Amsterdam trams in between – bike riders don’t mess with trams.
• Take a guided walking tour of Amsterdam's Old City Centre  with a private, small or larger group tours. 
• Take a countryside bike tour or a neighbourhood bike tour and enjoy Amsterdam with good bike paths. Dutch biking the way it is supposed to be, enjoyable.

6. Heineken Experience

The second or third largest beer maker in the world depending with whom you talk started in Amsterdam. The old brewery has a tour called the Heineken Experience.

Heineken Experience, Amsterdam

Critical look:

• They have not made beer in this brewery since the 1980s.
• The tour concentrates on the advertising and marketing power of this international brand.
• The tour only includes two half pints of Heineken. Trying to make friends with people who don't like beer on a brewery tour. Just to savour more of the product is a thirsty persons dilemma.

Alternative:

• Spending the price of entrance to the Heineken Experience at one of Amsterdam’s active micro-breweries or quality beer bars will result in more beer. 
• Amsterdam’s micro-brewery scene is building: Brouwerij ‘t IJ, Prael, De Bekeerde Zuster (the twisted sister) are well worth visit for beer lovers. Some Breweries conduct tours for groups and or individuals.
• There are beer tours as well as pub and club crawls for the young.

5. Canal Tour

Amsterdam is known as the Venice of the North. Even though the canals do not smell and the canals are not deep like Venice 20% of Amsterdam's surface is water. With over 100 kilometers of canals, around 90 islands and 1500 bridges traveling by water is a great way to see the city.

Critical look:

• Few Amsterdammers use their canals.
• There are three main canal tour companies in Amsterdam. They run tours that are similar with recorded messages, and their boats have no historic relevance to Amsterdam.

Local Boating Experience, Amsterdam

Alternative:

• Find a local Amsterdammer with a boat. Finding a local boat cruise is easier to find when the weather is good. Inquire with other tour providers you may use. Amsterdammers' have a network of boat operators in the city. 
• Visit Het Grachtenhuis (Canal House Museum) learn how Amsterdam's world heritage listed canals were created.
• Rent your own boat and captain yourself. Sleopdelen, Boaty. Becareful, when the weather is good on a weekend, out come the party boats.

4. Red Light District
Situated in the oldest part of Amsterdam this area provides an eclectic mix of sex shops, brothels, coffeeshops, hotels, gay bars and around 300 red light windows. Since 2000 Amsterdam legalised sex workers. The Red Light District is the main centre of this industry in Amsterdam.

Critical look:

• There is more to Amsterdam than the Red Light District. The area is often full of young men peering at the scantly clad women.
• On weekends the neighbourhood can be over loaded with travelling parties of men and women. Exciting for early evening walk.

Alternative: 

• Take a guided walking tour of the Red Light District. The area is the oldest in town and full of hidden secrets. A little bit of knowledge goes a long way compared to peering into the bewitching red lights.
• Go during the day and see the shopping, art and history side of the area.

3. Rijksmuseum

The greatest collection of Dutch art and history in the Netherlands. Normally ranked in the top 20 of museums in the world. The Rijksmuseum was under construction between 2003 and 2013. The masterpieces are layed out in a new style with focus still on the grand hallway of Masters. Classics by Rembrandt, Frans Hals and Vermeer are well represented.  

Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam.

Alternative:

• Rembrandt House: Comparable there are no crowds and you can see what sort of bed the old master Rembrandt slept in and toilet he used. Also the largest collection of Rembrandt etchings in the world.
• For practile information on how to avoid the queues of the Rijksmuseum and not be disappointed read this blog. Rijksmuseum Critics: What you need to know before you visit.

2. Van Gogh Museum
The expressionist painter was famed for his rough style, sharp colours and considered a trail blazer for modern art. This museum houses the largest collection of Van Gogh paintings under one roof and tells the story of the man from child hood to his end at 37 years old.

Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam.

Critical look:

• Van Gogh did not spend a lot of his life in the Netherlands.
• His fame has only come about through Van Gogh's influence on 20th century art.
• Expect large lines.

Alternative:

• Pre-purchase your tickets at the tourist information centre at the front of Central Station. Go late to avoid the crowds. 
• On Friday night the museum is open to 10pm with a relaxed and enjoyable environment.
• Go on a day trip to Kroller Muller Museum to experience the largest private collection.

1. Anne Frank Museum
The location of the Jewish Frank family hiding place during WWII. Teenage Anne documented her experience from the annex of this Amsterdam house during Nazi occupation. The book has become one of the world's most widely read. This popularity accounts for approximately 1 million visitors a year to this museum.

Anne Frank House Museum, Amsterdam.

Critical Look:

• For a small museum there are a lot of people at certain times. 
• The museum has a difficult job balancing the broader context of the period.
• It is more of a pilgrimage than a museum.

Alternative:

• Avoid the long lines and buy on line. Go late in the evening or arrive early before it opens and the school groups arrive. 
• Resistance museum provides you with a greater snap shot of World War II in Amsterdam and the Netherlands. Rated one of the best museums in the Netherlands don't expect long lines here maybe just a school group now and then.
• The Jewish Historical Museum provides detail on the Jewish community's influence on Amsterdam through the centuries. Ticket to this museum includes entrance to the Portuguese Synagoge and nearby Deportation centre.  

Overview of Amsterdam's Top 10 Things to Do:

• The 'Big 3' as the industry calls them, fill out the top three. 
• Sex, alcohol and boats are four, five and six. 
• Bikes, markets, parks and flowers round out the list. 

Quite a range for a small city of less than 1 million people. Have you got a suggestion? Let us know what you enjoyed in Amsterdam.

For more things to do check out the following:

November in Amsterdam

December in Amsterdam: What to do

Top Things to do in Amsterdam: Winter

A Lovers' Guide to Amsterdam: things to do

Amsterdam Top 10 things to Eat: a critical approach

Things to do in Amsterdam: Local tips from Famous Amsterdammers

Overcoming the biggest problems for Visitors to Amsterdam

All Time Top 10 Things to do in Amsterdam for Teenagers: A critical approach

If you are bringing a teenager who reads books click here

When in Amsterdam.....enjoy!